If I'm Not Feeling So Well Tomorrow....

Here's the culprit! As you all probably know already, I love to try out dishes particular to an area, or even to a specific day. Today is giovedi santo, or Holy Thursday, and today the thing to eat here in Naples is zuppa di cozze. I happened to find a restaurant very close to my house serving this mussel "soup" street side, take-away style. So, 9 euros later, I have dinner all ready! (Or so I thought...)

While waiting for my order to be prepared I was transfixed by the amazing process of preparing the soup. Rather large aluminum trays filled with mussels, octopus, bread and what I thought were olives. These were then drenched a few times with hot water, which was then completely drained from the tray. From there, a lady bathed the whole affair in a clear, bright red sauce. Wrapped in aluminum foil, it seemed like a quick, easy and delicious dinner. 

Not so much. While I can't complain about the octopus, the mussels were pretty gritty and some even contained little pieces of shells. I was expecting the red sauce to be super spicy and tasty, but I didn't pick up on either taste or spice. The worst part, however, were the "olives." Oh, once I peeled back the aluminum foil, I noticed they were not olives. They were snails. And slimy ones to boot. 

I'm not sure if the zuppa di cozze is like this everywhere, or if I just picked the wrong spot. I'll try it again somewhere else, but this may be one seafood dish I'd rather pass up...

The Original....

If you've been following my blog, you've certainly seen all of the posts about Eataly and the restaurants. The New York location is just great, but I also wanted to see what the original Eataly store in Torino is like. So, while I was in the north, I left the beautiful center of Turin for the outskirts. Lingotto, a neighborhood of Torino, is home to the original Eataly supermarket. 

I won't say that I was disappointed, but the Turin location is small! (I believe about half the size of its NYC 

counterpart.) The goods sold are almost exactly the same as those in NY, and the prices are more or less the same. Even the restaurants are the same, though this time I didn't have enough time to try one out. I wouldn't make another trip out there unless I needed something specific or was going to the Museo dell'Automobile nearby, but I certainly enjoyed seeing the original! 

Honey!

Loving all things local, I had to pick up this honey while I was back in Revello. One of many different varieties sold at the very tiny supermarket in town, I used it in iced tea and slathered it on some gorgonzola cheese too! Yum! 

CopyCat!

While back up in Revello recently, I happened to find delicious, sweet local asparagus in the town's vegetable shop. 

So, I was a big-time copy cat and made a great asparagus risotto! This looks pretty familiar, doesn't it? :)

Let It Be...

Italian food is generally not about manipulation or modernity, though the East Village restaurant Perbacco certainly tries to incorporate both of these elements into their food. To be clear, the food was not bad by any stretch of the imagination. However, I do feel that one must know the best way possible to treat and serve certain foods to make a dish effective. Here, perhaps, is where Perbacco may need some work. 

Our dinner started off on a very positive note. The ambiance is to-die-for; the small dining room artfully packs as many tables as humanly possible into the cozy space. It reminded me of someplace I could have found in my old neighborhood in Rome, like a little part of Trastevere had been transplanted in New York. 

From the appetizers we had ordered, it seemed as if a very promising dinner was in store. Golden brown arancini were served in a paper cone and flanked by a tomato sauce. Their abundant portion of creme brulee di Parmigiano Reggiano was heaven for a cheese-lover like myself. The steak tartare, though, served with a lightly poached egg yolk, was overshadowed by the heavy flavor of the mushrooms. The eggplant and tomato fritters served with a mozzarella foam were not what we were expecting, but nevertheless proved to be my table's favorite appetizer hands down. 

The primi, for the most part, were nicely done as well. The tagliatelle with lamb ragu were simple and well executed, as was the risotto ai frutti di mare. A few mussels and clams in their shells for garnish wouldn't have hurt, but it was nevertheless a good dish of risotto. My pasta dish, however, did not go down in my book of favorites. I had ordered the ravioli di zucca con salsiccia e amaretti, pumpkin ravioli with sausage ragu/sauce and amaretto. The ravioli were lined down the middle of the plate, flanked by drops of amaretto foam and a line of the sausage sauce. Perhaps, aesthetically, not the best choice in the world. 

Secondi and the desserts really didn't leave us with anything spectacular, either. The braised beef cheeks were thoroughly enjoyed, the best of the entrees. The salmon was perfectly cooked, however the plate looked quite sad. A huge chunk of salmon, a few pieces of grilled endive and two sauteed mushrooms was certainly minimalist, though not a super presentation. The least enjoyed dish was the chicken rolled with cheese and raisins, served over mashed potatoes and spinach. Could have been us, but there was just something that didn't work in the recipe, plus the potatoes were cold! 

My dessert was quite the attention-grabber. The hamburger di cioccolato was visually hilarious, but taste-wise fell flat. The "bun" was made of a sweet dough that was just too dry to eat and enjoy. The two chocolate mousses that formed the patties were good, but didn't make up for the dry bun. Is it sad to say that my favorite part were actually the pear "fries" and the raspberry and white chocolate/ginger dipping sauces? A cute way to end the meal, but it would have been much cuter if it were pleasing both visually and taste-wise. 

Overall, our dinner at Perbacco was good, but nothing spectacular. Prices seemed fair and the service was decent. ( I don't want my server apologizing for a messed-up presentation when the plate hits the table, nor do I want her to be slapping friends/customers high-fives as they walk in. Sorry.) The manager certainly should have done the rounds, but stayed put on his stool for most of the time we were there. Perbacco didn't leave me with a terrible taste in my mouth; I would actually go back quite willingly to see how they perform given a second try. 

Il Pesce at Eataly

The best thing about Eataly is most likely the fact that you don't have to wait until you get home to try out the goods. The store's motto is "We sell what we cook and we cook what we sell," so the very same products offered for sale are what are used in the restaurants too. I was really expecting some darn good food from the sit-down restaurants at Eataly; one of the main reasons being my profound respect for Mario Batali, Lidia Matticchio Bastianich, and what they cook. During my trip to the store, we decided to lunch at 'Il Pesce,' the restaurant devoted to serving only fish and shellfish.

Reeling from an overly-complex Italian meal the night before, the simplicity of the food we ate at 'Il Pesce' was much appreciated in my eyes. The meal began with Eataly's dense, tasty bread served with that classic Italian-American mixture of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. (The bread could have gone to better use if we avoided this faux-scarpetta and went directly for what was left from the appetizers or mains.)

Though a nice glass of white would have been the perfect match for the following meal, I (and my antibiotics) opted for the herby, subtly sweet Spuma Nera soda.

Being a huge fan of raw fish and meat, I opted for the crudo trio to begin. The day's three fishes were fluke, porgy and hamachi, served with black radish, toasted seeds and an aoili, respectively. Everything was spot-on, though I certainly wouldn't have minded a slightly more abundant portions of each. Another appetizer that we ordered were the baked clams, delicious, though missing out on the nice presentation of my crudo trio.

As for the main dishes, the entire table ordered either the grilled octopus salad or the grilled tuna. As I said before, not many choices but you can't mess with fresh, well-prepared seafood. The tuna, lightly salted only, was served with greens and beans. Though unevenly grilled, at the photo shows, it was still a prime and sizable chunk of fish. The octopus salad, on the other hand, was simply perfect. Also grilled and lightly seasoned, this was served over top of a simple salad with cannelloni beans dressed in olive oil and a touch of balsamic. I was practically imagining myself beach-side in Italy at a little seafood joint.

The side dishes, one in particular, cannot be forgotten either. There were bitter greens; I'm not sure exactly what type they were. We also ordered the richest, creamiest, most divine (and calorie-filled?) polenta ever created. No polenta I've ever made has even come minimally close to being like this. While I'd love to know the recipe, I would imagine that there copious amounts of butter, cream and cheese were utilized to get such a smooth, creamy texture. While I'd never pair it with seafood, the intrinsic goodness the polenta made everything all right.

Service was rather slow and the ambience was most definitely that of a food court, however the food made up for all of that. All of the dishes were rather costly, most of the dishes costing from 20-25 dollars each. (I'd imagine that's pretty standard NYC restaurant pricing for fresh fish, though.) It was nice to do some shopping, sit down and eat a very decent meal, and then rejoin the crowds without feeling laden down with a heavy lunch. Next time I'm in New York, I will without hesitation give the other Eataly restaurants a try.

Boccioni at the MoMA

Realizing that I've gone food-centric for the past few posts, here's a bit of art for you all! 

The Museum of Modern Art is packed with masterpieces and one of them happens to be, quite possibly, my favorite statue. Umberto Boccioni's 'Unique Forms of Continuity in Space' may not seem familiar, but if you've ever had a 20 cent piece, you've definitely seen this statue before.  MoMA's version is only a copy, but an original one made in 1931, during Boccioni's life. 

Boccioni's statue is a key Futurist work. Futurism was an important movement that developed in the early 20th century and encompassed not only art and architecture, but also music, theater, literature, food and even fashion. Futurism embraced the many changes that were taking place in that specific period, including industrialization and devastating wars. Their inspiration was drawn from dynamic movement, speed and the artists' rapidly evolving Italy. 

'Unique Forms of Continuity in Space' is the perfect example of the Futurists' love of continuous movement and dynamism. The figure of the man is almost secondary to the flowing lines of his body and Boccioni's play on the empty space around the work. In fact, that's the reason why I tried to show you all a 360-degree view of the work. 

Eating Napoli-Style at Eataly!

Eataly is home to various eateries, one being one of my default pizzerias in Naples, RossoPomodoro. While this is a chain restaurant, RossoPomodoro turns out very good pizzas, as well as pastas, meat and the rest. (This location only does pizzas, though.) I haven't had the chance to actually eat at the Eataly location (yet), but from what I've seen the pizzas look pretty spot-on. Even the decoration is just like my RP back in Naples! 

The Wonderful World of Eataly's Desserts....

"Pochi ma buoni" is a saying that could definitely be applied to Eataly's pasticceria. It translates literally to "Few, but good," quality over quantity. While there aren't that many choices, what is offered is just...out of this world. 

I had to show some serious restraint here, although I certainly wouldn't have minded juggling some 4 or 5 plates of desserts while searching in vain for a place to eat them in peace. (Let's not forget that each little dessert costs almost 6 dollars each!!!) Through my rather complicated dessert decision-making process, I opted for the Mousse di Cioccolato with pieces of pistachio and a ripe raspberry on top. 

Though I had to eat it fighting my way through the madhouse, it was really, really, really good. Next time, I won't be able to choose just one! 

One Reason I Couldn't Live in NYC!

I absolutely love piadine, a bread typical of the Romagna region of Italy. Think of a Mexican tortilla, just a little bit thicker. When heated up and filled with whatever your heart's desire ( prosciutto and cheese, Nutella, anything....), they are to die for. 

Do notice, however, the price of piadine at Eataly in New York. Yes, that is $7.80 for my beloved package of 4 piadine! C'mon Mario!!! 

Welcome to Eataly!

If you haven't visited the Italian food emporium Eataly in New York City, GO. NOW. Please!

Opened in 2010, this food heaven has gathered a lot of publicity. (One of the co-owners is, as I'm sure most people know, Mr. Mario Batali.) There are restaurants, a market, 2 coffee shops and more, all under one very large roof. Every time I've been there, the place has just been literally packed full with people. 

Eataly is a great, albeit rather expensive, one-stop resource for lovers of authentic Italian food. If you can imagine it, they will have it. The 'market' area includes fresh fruits and vegetables, an extensive butcher's counter, fresh fish, and lots and lots of pasta. ( Yes, they also have their own fresh pasta being made in front of your eyes as well.) The only problem? They don't sell my beloved mozzarella di buffala! 

The food at Eataly is, in my opinion, quite delicious and well-prepared. The first time I went, we had a bottle of wine and large tray of mixed cheeses and meats in La Piazza. It was nothing groundbreaking, but certainly a very good plate of meats and cheeses. When I was in NYC last week, we went to one of the sit down restaurants, Il Pesce. As the name implies, this place serves only fish. While the service was quite slow, Il Pesce served up simple, delicious dishes. (There were no complaints at my table!) 

This is the food that is available to me on an every day basis, so a lot of Eataly's products seem like a gigantic rip-off. Nevertheless, if I wasn't currently living in Italy, I could do a lot of damage at Eataly! I do love the concept (one that began, by the way, in Torino in 2007) and I found the food to be excellent. Can't wait to go back

Back from NYC!

Hello readers!! I wanted to let you all know that I am back from New York City and have so many great posts, but....I no longer have internet at my house!!! So bear with my while I hopefully get myself re-connected!!

Off to the Big Apple!!!

Sorry about my lack of quality posts in the past few days, but I'm gearing up for my trip to NYC! I really cannot wait...food, fun and family! 

You all can definitely expect some posts while I am there, since NYC has such great Italian/Italian-American places. Wish me a buon viaggio and stay tuned for new posts soon! 

A presto! 

Chocolate Giveaway!!!-The Goods

I just wanted to show everyone exactly what they are missing out on!! Here is what Lynn D., the winner of  my chocolate giveaway contest will receive shortly! (Well, you'll notice that there are two of everything-half is for my parents.)

It was hard not to buy the entire store this afternoon!! 

Get Me Back to Good Grissini!!

I've been missing something I never thought I would: grissini. These hard, crunchy, dry breadsticks had never caught my attention before because they were, well, hard, dry, flavorless and a useless intake of calories. In restaurants, prepackaged grissini are kind of like the losers of the bread world. Served straight up in their plastic packets, they only get action if the bread is long gone and the wait seems to drag on. 

 I finally tried an artisanal version that I found near Torino, the birthplace of the grissini, that changed my mind completely. These breadsticks were still hard and crunchy, but there was just something about them that was different. They were certainly fresher, and maybe the fact that they were made with lard had something to do with it! It didn't take long before the entire pack was long gone, though I've made a mental note to stock up the next time I'm there! 

Heaven!

While in Rome, I made it a point to eat lunch at one of my favorite restaurants in the world, Roscioli. This was the very first restaurant I ate at in Italy. My parents and I were brought there by our new-found friend Alex and promptly seated in the 4-table basement wine-cellar. This place may be close to many other touristy restaurants in Campo dei Fiori, but it really does serve exceptional food. Many of the plates are traditional dishes, others are rather inventive, but everything is made with the freshest of ingredients and plated perfectly.

Accompanied once again by Alex, our meal started off with fresh ricotta drizzled with olive oil and some ground pepper, as well as the amazing bread and pizza bianca that Roscioli makes fresh every day at their bakery just down the street. For an appetizer, I decided to try something a bit out of the ordinary, a homemade foie gras topped with sweet and sour onions. Personally, I loved the onions, but not the foie which I suppose is more of an acquired taste. 

For the main dish, Alex ordered a very delicious and healthy meal. He got strips of Piedmont veal marinated in lemon and Weiss beer with a side of broccoli rabe. This was really exceptional, the veal was tender and flavorful. As for me, I got a tartare di spigola, a seabass tartare. Served with colorful bean sprouts and an apple puree, this dish was perfect for a beautifully warm spring day. 

Of course, we couldn't not get desserts. Alex and I opted for the same thing, a meringue cookie with diced mango and some sort of a mousse on top. This was served with a poached apple. Overall, I would definitely eat this dessert again, even though it did not particularly stand out and was quite messy to eat. To really finish up the meal, we were brought out a little tray of cookies and a melted dark chocolate dipping sauce. Very much appreciated, even though by that time we were quite full. 

Is it wrong that I already want to go back?! 

A Day in Rome

Yesterday I made a trip up to Rome, just for the day. I was lucky enough to have amazing, beautiful, perfect sunny weather and get to visit with some friends I haven't seen in too long! Here are some snapshots from around the Eternal City....much more to follow! 

And the winner is....

Lynn D.!!! 

Today, my chocolate giveaway has come to an end, and I have our winner! Lynn D wrote a great story about a misleading pizza up in Torino. Sometimes you just never know exactly what you will get! 

 I'll ship out the Gay-Odin chocolate to you ASAP! Grazie!!!

I have had many memorable meals during my travels but one will stand out for the rest of my life because we laughed so hard!  We were on the road in Torino Italy during the 2006 Olympic Games. Myself and 3 friends had just come from Bardonecchia where we watched the US Women’s team sweep the half pipe event! That in itself was memorable, but after the long train ride we were very hungry!  We decided to go simple and found a small pizza joint that was very crowded with the locals. We each chose an individual pizza and one friend was absolutely thrilled with the thought of a German Sausage pizza! He talked about the German sausage; it was going to be big and thick and full of flavors, maybe even like a bratwurst. He was salivating just thinking of it! The pizza came out and when they handed him his… we roared with laughter. The German sausage was plain old American hot dogs!!!!! His face fell so fast from a huge expectant grin to complete and utter disappointment but for the rest of us… we will NEVER forget the moment. We all laughed so hard we were crying!

Enter now or forever hold your peace!

My Gay-Odin chocolate giveaway is almost over!! If you still want to enter, send me your favorite food memories as soon as possible to:

live.italiano@gmail.com

Don't pass up this opportunity to get free, delicious chocolate direct from Naples! 

Another Small Meal...

Oh boy...I've got another epic meal to share with you all. It was hands-down one of the most delicious, most fun meals of all time! 

One of my friends, Rita, invited us to her house near Caserta for dinner last night. Her father, I believe, was the real mastermind behind the meal; he is an amazing chef! I was awaiting something pretty simple, but we definitely got a feast! You all are really going to wonder how we were able to eat all of this food. And I fear just a bit jealous. 

We started off with so many appetizers including bruschetta topped with tomatoes and garlic, fried crab and algae fritters, fresh mozzarella di bufala, pepper biscuits wrapped with prosciutto crudo, green and purple olives, salami, little leek omelettes....I feel like I am forgetting something! Yes, we were also served a tiny little octopus stuffed with anchovies and cooked with olives and capers. This polipo alla luciana was beyond good-the octopus was super fresh and the capers and olives helped create a salty, but tasty broth. (I even asked for a spoon so I could eat the broth, too!) 

For our primo piatto, Rita's father served us an asparagus risotto. I absolutely loved this because the asparagus was incredible. He found these tiny, wild asparagus that were like nothing I have ever eaten. The risotto wasn't heavy or cheesy so the natural flavor of these delectable vegetables was the star. As if all of this wasn't enough, the secondo was orata all'aqua pazza, or "crazy water seabream." The fish was simply prepared with some tomatoes and other vegetables. Wow. There is absolutely nothing that can compare to a fresh, whole fish simply and perfectly cooked. 

Well, no dinner is complete without dessert, and we had two! They had prepared apple turnovers and strawberries with a touch of limoncello. We brought a baba', which is a typical Neapolitan pastry drenched in rum. This particular variety also had whipped cream and Nutella! Of course, the hosts also offered us prosecco, limoncello, grappa, and Strega liquor, as well as coffee. 

This will definitely be a meal that I can use to judge all future meals. Our hosts were so incredibly friendly and gracious-they even sent me home with a bottle of homemade limoncello! And Rita's father had us in tears with his jokes all during the dinner! This is what eating Italian food is all about. Fresh food, simple preparation, good wine, and great company! 

Look what I found!!

Today my friend Nico got a sfogliatella as a little afternoon snack. This type wasn't sweet, rather it was filled with sausage and the typical Neapolitan broccoli called friarielli. Mmm...it looked so delicious! 

Down by the sea

Yesterday my friends and I were out enjoying the amazing weather, strolling along the Bay of Naples. While we were resting and enjoying the view, we met this fellow from Senegal. He spoke Italian, French and English and was so nice!! 

Here in Naples, you'll frequently see guys selling jewelry along the waterfront. As is typical, he 'gave' us all a beaded bracelet and I bought a cute little ring from him. (Don't worry....if they do try to give you something, just give them a euro or two in return.) 

I've been SO busy while my friends have been here playing tour guide that I haven't had much time for posts, but I have lots to share with you all very soon!!! 

A presto!