Off to the Big Apple!!!

Sorry about my lack of quality posts in the past few days, but I'm gearing up for my trip to NYC! I really cannot wait...food, fun and family! 

You all can definitely expect some posts while I am there, since NYC has such great Italian/Italian-American places. Wish me a buon viaggio and stay tuned for new posts soon! 

A presto! 

Chocolate Giveaway!!!-The Goods

I just wanted to show everyone exactly what they are missing out on!! Here is what Lynn D., the winner of  my chocolate giveaway contest will receive shortly! (Well, you'll notice that there are two of everything-half is for my parents.)

It was hard not to buy the entire store this afternoon!! 

Get Me Back to Good Grissini!!

I've been missing something I never thought I would: grissini. These hard, crunchy, dry breadsticks had never caught my attention before because they were, well, hard, dry, flavorless and a useless intake of calories. In restaurants, prepackaged grissini are kind of like the losers of the bread world. Served straight up in their plastic packets, they only get action if the bread is long gone and the wait seems to drag on. 

 I finally tried an artisanal version that I found near Torino, the birthplace of the grissini, that changed my mind completely. These breadsticks were still hard and crunchy, but there was just something about them that was different. They were certainly fresher, and maybe the fact that they were made with lard had something to do with it! It didn't take long before the entire pack was long gone, though I've made a mental note to stock up the next time I'm there! 

Heaven!

While in Rome, I made it a point to eat lunch at one of my favorite restaurants in the world, Roscioli. This was the very first restaurant I ate at in Italy. My parents and I were brought there by our new-found friend Alex and promptly seated in the 4-table basement wine-cellar. This place may be close to many other touristy restaurants in Campo dei Fiori, but it really does serve exceptional food. Many of the plates are traditional dishes, others are rather inventive, but everything is made with the freshest of ingredients and plated perfectly.

Accompanied once again by Alex, our meal started off with fresh ricotta drizzled with olive oil and some ground pepper, as well as the amazing bread and pizza bianca that Roscioli makes fresh every day at their bakery just down the street. For an appetizer, I decided to try something a bit out of the ordinary, a homemade foie gras topped with sweet and sour onions. Personally, I loved the onions, but not the foie which I suppose is more of an acquired taste. 

For the main dish, Alex ordered a very delicious and healthy meal. He got strips of Piedmont veal marinated in lemon and Weiss beer with a side of broccoli rabe. This was really exceptional, the veal was tender and flavorful. As for me, I got a tartare di spigola, a seabass tartare. Served with colorful bean sprouts and an apple puree, this dish was perfect for a beautifully warm spring day. 

Of course, we couldn't not get desserts. Alex and I opted for the same thing, a meringue cookie with diced mango and some sort of a mousse on top. This was served with a poached apple. Overall, I would definitely eat this dessert again, even though it did not particularly stand out and was quite messy to eat. To really finish up the meal, we were brought out a little tray of cookies and a melted dark chocolate dipping sauce. Very much appreciated, even though by that time we were quite full. 

Is it wrong that I already want to go back?! 

A Day in Rome

Yesterday I made a trip up to Rome, just for the day. I was lucky enough to have amazing, beautiful, perfect sunny weather and get to visit with some friends I haven't seen in too long! Here are some snapshots from around the Eternal City....much more to follow! 

And the winner is....

Lynn D.!!! 

Today, my chocolate giveaway has come to an end, and I have our winner! Lynn D wrote a great story about a misleading pizza up in Torino. Sometimes you just never know exactly what you will get! 

 I'll ship out the Gay-Odin chocolate to you ASAP! Grazie!!!

I have had many memorable meals during my travels but one will stand out for the rest of my life because we laughed so hard!  We were on the road in Torino Italy during the 2006 Olympic Games. Myself and 3 friends had just come from Bardonecchia where we watched the US Women’s team sweep the half pipe event! That in itself was memorable, but after the long train ride we were very hungry!  We decided to go simple and found a small pizza joint that was very crowded with the locals. We each chose an individual pizza and one friend was absolutely thrilled with the thought of a German Sausage pizza! He talked about the German sausage; it was going to be big and thick and full of flavors, maybe even like a bratwurst. He was salivating just thinking of it! The pizza came out and when they handed him his… we roared with laughter. The German sausage was plain old American hot dogs!!!!! His face fell so fast from a huge expectant grin to complete and utter disappointment but for the rest of us… we will NEVER forget the moment. We all laughed so hard we were crying!

Enter now or forever hold your peace!

My Gay-Odin chocolate giveaway is almost over!! If you still want to enter, send me your favorite food memories as soon as possible to:

live.italiano@gmail.com

Don't pass up this opportunity to get free, delicious chocolate direct from Naples! 

Another Small Meal...

Oh boy...I've got another epic meal to share with you all. It was hands-down one of the most delicious, most fun meals of all time! 

One of my friends, Rita, invited us to her house near Caserta for dinner last night. Her father, I believe, was the real mastermind behind the meal; he is an amazing chef! I was awaiting something pretty simple, but we definitely got a feast! You all are really going to wonder how we were able to eat all of this food. And I fear just a bit jealous. 

We started off with so many appetizers including bruschetta topped with tomatoes and garlic, fried crab and algae fritters, fresh mozzarella di bufala, pepper biscuits wrapped with prosciutto crudo, green and purple olives, salami, little leek omelettes....I feel like I am forgetting something! Yes, we were also served a tiny little octopus stuffed with anchovies and cooked with olives and capers. This polipo alla luciana was beyond good-the octopus was super fresh and the capers and olives helped create a salty, but tasty broth. (I even asked for a spoon so I could eat the broth, too!) 

For our primo piatto, Rita's father served us an asparagus risotto. I absolutely loved this because the asparagus was incredible. He found these tiny, wild asparagus that were like nothing I have ever eaten. The risotto wasn't heavy or cheesy so the natural flavor of these delectable vegetables was the star. As if all of this wasn't enough, the secondo was orata all'aqua pazza, or "crazy water seabream." The fish was simply prepared with some tomatoes and other vegetables. Wow. There is absolutely nothing that can compare to a fresh, whole fish simply and perfectly cooked. 

Well, no dinner is complete without dessert, and we had two! They had prepared apple turnovers and strawberries with a touch of limoncello. We brought a baba', which is a typical Neapolitan pastry drenched in rum. This particular variety also had whipped cream and Nutella! Of course, the hosts also offered us prosecco, limoncello, grappa, and Strega liquor, as well as coffee. 

This will definitely be a meal that I can use to judge all future meals. Our hosts were so incredibly friendly and gracious-they even sent me home with a bottle of homemade limoncello! And Rita's father had us in tears with his jokes all during the dinner! This is what eating Italian food is all about. Fresh food, simple preparation, good wine, and great company! 

Look what I found!!

Today my friend Nico got a sfogliatella as a little afternoon snack. This type wasn't sweet, rather it was filled with sausage and the typical Neapolitan broccoli called friarielli. Mmm...it looked so delicious! 

Down by the sea

Yesterday my friends and I were out enjoying the amazing weather, strolling along the Bay of Naples. While we were resting and enjoying the view, we met this fellow from Senegal. He spoke Italian, French and English and was so nice!! 

Here in Naples, you'll frequently see guys selling jewelry along the waterfront. As is typical, he 'gave' us all a beaded bracelet and I bought a cute little ring from him. (Don't worry....if they do try to give you something, just give them a euro or two in return.) 

I've been SO busy while my friends have been here playing tour guide that I haven't had much time for posts, but I have lots to share with you all very soon!!! 

A presto! 

Carnivale!!!!

It's that time of the year: Carnivale! The streets of Naples are littered with confetti, kids are dressed up like princesses and pirates, and pastry shops have out Carnivale specialties. 

Carnivale is the blow-out before Lent when people dress up, party in the streets and eat their fill of super-fattening foods. (Okay, most of the people who I say dressed up today were only kids but adults do it as well.) The most famous celebration in Italy is the month-long one in Viareggio, however Venice's Carnivale is also incredibly popular. I've heard many a warning that during Carnivale I should be careful while walking around Naples-getting pelted with eggs or sprayed with shaving cream is a very present danger!!!! (I made it through the day clean, thankfully!)

Two of the most popular Carnivale traditions are chiacchiere and sanguinaccio. Chiacchiere are thin pieces of fried dough that are then sprinkled with a layer of powdered sugar. (Depending on where you are, the name differs. They also go by the names frappe, cenci, bugie, and others. My Aunt Liz used to make them and we called them ewand, though I'm not sure where that name came from!) Some pastry stores do a different version where instead they are drizzled with honey. They are especially great dunked into the sanguinaccio. Any way they are eaten, these are delish! 

Sanguinaccio, on the other hand, is a rather interesting chocolate sauce. Let's start off with the name. In Italian, the word sangue means 'blood' and the suffix -accio means 'bad' or 'wild.' Hmm....what is this all about? It's gross, but the main ingredient in this chocolate syrup is nothing other than pig's blood! The blood is mixed with dark chocolate, cocoa powder, sugar, cinnamon and a few other ingredients. Today, you won't find this traditional version for sale anywhere. Since pig's blood is highly perishable, the law states that sanguinaccio must be made with alternative ingredients like milk. (Please note that I said you won't find it on sale anywhere, but lots of people still use blood if they make it at home! 

Saluzzo

I'm taking you all back up north with a post about the city of Saluzzo, in the province of Cuneo. After staying in Revello, Saluzzo seemed like a big city, even though there are less than 20,000 inhabitants! In terms of attractions, there is not too much, but the city is beautiful nevertheless. Here's a little tour of the city!  

This is the main street in the city, Corso Italia. There are little boutiques and some really beautiful looking cafes. I found this little shop selling fresh pasta and agnolotti, similar to ravioli, with such an appealing display case! Towards the end of the street is the cathedral of Saluzzo. 

The Lombard-Gothic style cathedral was constructed around the turn of the 16th century.  From the church, we decided to walk up a windy cobblestone street to the old medieval city. 

The older part of town has a great atmosphere as the sun starts to set. The streetlights cast a warm glow on the buildings and it feels almost like you are transported back in time. Just looking at the pictures right now is almost enough to make me hop on the next train back! 

Zucchini with Flowers

I had to use up the rest of my zucchini flowers somehow, so I threw them into a recipe I modified. 

Whenever I go to visit my friend Christian and his family in Salerno, his mother always makes the most delicious zucchini. While I have no idea exactly what she does, the plate basically consists of battered, fried zucchini bathed in a sauce of garlic, oil and vinegar. So simple. And so delicious I normally help myself to seconds and even thirds! 

Well, I had this dish in mind when I created my simplified, lower-fat version a while back. I cut up my zucchini into long, thin strands then sauteed them with a bit of olive oil and garlic. Once they were almost finished cooking, I added just a splash of vinegar and let the flavors meld together. From there, I sprinkled on enough bread crumbs to coat the zucchini and I threw in the chopped up flowers. It's not quite the same as the original, but definitely a good stand-in until the next time I visit! 

La Collegiata di Revello

I'm heading back to Revello, virtually at least, for a visit to the amazing Collegiata church. It's something completely unexpected in such a small town. This late-gothic style church was commissioned towards the end of the 15th century by Pope Sixtus IV (a.k.a. the man behind the Sistine Chapel!). I love being able to find such gems in out-of-the-way places! 

Take a look: 

Inside La Collegiata

Polyptych by Oddone Pascale-1541

San Martino

If you're looking for only one museum to visit while in Naples, the Certosa of San Martino just may be it. Situated in the Vomero, the museum offers breathtaking views and an amazing, varied collection of artwork. If you're lucky, as I was, you can tour the museum practically by yourself too! (No lines here!) 

Initial work on the complex began in 1325, when this monastery was founded. Of course, as is typical here, work continued on during the following centuries! Monks inhabited this intricately decorated space almost constantly up until 1866. Shortly after their departure, the complex was turned into a museum by the archaeologist Giuseppe Fiorelli. This museum was, and still is, the best testament to the history and society of Naples. 

As I entered into the museum, the first building I encountered was the church. I stepped into the structure and I was completely alone. While the church isn't large by any standards, the artwork found inside is absolutely stunning. This church was consecrated in 1368, yet decoration of the inside continued on until the 18th century. The work of artists like Cosimo Fanzago, Jusepe de Ribera and others adorn the inside of the church. 

However, the museum also allows visitors to visit the sacresty, the small chapels and the other areas behind the church. The frescos there are just as marvelous as the ones in the church! And once again, it was just me and the art. 

The actual holdings of the museum, regarding various aspects of Neapolitan life through the years, are quite interesting. There are carriages and boats that belonged to the kings, intricately carved and painted. There are paintings and sculptures, mostly of a religious nature, that show off the ability of some of Napoli's most famous artists. One of the most eye-catching aspects of the collection is a huge Nativity scene. Naples is well-known for the hand-crafted presepe, and the museum houses the largest Nativity scene I've ever seen. 

My favorite part of the museum is called the Chiostro Grande, basically a large courtyard in the middle of the museum. In the very center, there is a well designed by Giovanni Antonio Dosio. Surrounded by beautiful, colorful, flowering trees, this courtyard is heavenly. Nevertheless, there is a darker side to the chiostro. Skulls. Yes, there is a tiny cemetery there and the fence surrounding it is topped with (fake) skulls. 

The museum is open every day from 8.30 until 7.30 p.m., except for Wednesdays. Tickets cost around 7 euro, although there are certain times when entrance is free. (I believe from 8.30 until 10.30 and from 5.30 p.m until closing, but I am not 100% about the times.)