Carnivale!!!!

It's that time of the year: Carnivale! The streets of Naples are littered with confetti, kids are dressed up like princesses and pirates, and pastry shops have out Carnivale specialties. 

Carnivale is the blow-out before Lent when people dress up, party in the streets and eat their fill of super-fattening foods. (Okay, most of the people who I say dressed up today were only kids but adults do it as well.) The most famous celebration in Italy is the month-long one in Viareggio, however Venice's Carnivale is also incredibly popular. I've heard many a warning that during Carnivale I should be careful while walking around Naples-getting pelted with eggs or sprayed with shaving cream is a very present danger!!!! (I made it through the day clean, thankfully!)

Two of the most popular Carnivale traditions are chiacchiere and sanguinaccio. Chiacchiere are thin pieces of fried dough that are then sprinkled with a layer of powdered sugar. (Depending on where you are, the name differs. They also go by the names frappe, cenci, bugie, and others. My Aunt Liz used to make them and we called them ewand, though I'm not sure where that name came from!) Some pastry stores do a different version where instead they are drizzled with honey. They are especially great dunked into the sanguinaccio. Any way they are eaten, these are delish! 

Sanguinaccio, on the other hand, is a rather interesting chocolate sauce. Let's start off with the name. In Italian, the word sangue means 'blood' and the suffix -accio means 'bad' or 'wild.' Hmm....what is this all about? It's gross, but the main ingredient in this chocolate syrup is nothing other than pig's blood! The blood is mixed with dark chocolate, cocoa powder, sugar, cinnamon and a few other ingredients. Today, you won't find this traditional version for sale anywhere. Since pig's blood is highly perishable, the law states that sanguinaccio must be made with alternative ingredients like milk. (Please note that I said you won't find it on sale anywhere, but lots of people still use blood if they make it at home! 

Saluzzo

I'm taking you all back up north with a post about the city of Saluzzo, in the province of Cuneo. After staying in Revello, Saluzzo seemed like a big city, even though there are less than 20,000 inhabitants! In terms of attractions, there is not too much, but the city is beautiful nevertheless. Here's a little tour of the city!  

This is the main street in the city, Corso Italia. There are little boutiques and some really beautiful looking cafes. I found this little shop selling fresh pasta and agnolotti, similar to ravioli, with such an appealing display case! Towards the end of the street is the cathedral of Saluzzo. 

The Lombard-Gothic style cathedral was constructed around the turn of the 16th century.  From the church, we decided to walk up a windy cobblestone street to the old medieval city. 

The older part of town has a great atmosphere as the sun starts to set. The streetlights cast a warm glow on the buildings and it feels almost like you are transported back in time. Just looking at the pictures right now is almost enough to make me hop on the next train back! 

Zucchini with Flowers

I had to use up the rest of my zucchini flowers somehow, so I threw them into a recipe I modified. 

Whenever I go to visit my friend Christian and his family in Salerno, his mother always makes the most delicious zucchini. While I have no idea exactly what she does, the plate basically consists of battered, fried zucchini bathed in a sauce of garlic, oil and vinegar. So simple. And so delicious I normally help myself to seconds and even thirds! 

Well, I had this dish in mind when I created my simplified, lower-fat version a while back. I cut up my zucchini into long, thin strands then sauteed them with a bit of olive oil and garlic. Once they were almost finished cooking, I added just a splash of vinegar and let the flavors meld together. From there, I sprinkled on enough bread crumbs to coat the zucchini and I threw in the chopped up flowers. It's not quite the same as the original, but definitely a good stand-in until the next time I visit! 

La Collegiata di Revello

I'm heading back to Revello, virtually at least, for a visit to the amazing Collegiata church. It's something completely unexpected in such a small town. This late-gothic style church was commissioned towards the end of the 15th century by Pope Sixtus IV (a.k.a. the man behind the Sistine Chapel!). I love being able to find such gems in out-of-the-way places! 

Take a look: 

Inside La Collegiata

Polyptych by Oddone Pascale-1541

San Martino

If you're looking for only one museum to visit while in Naples, the Certosa of San Martino just may be it. Situated in the Vomero, the museum offers breathtaking views and an amazing, varied collection of artwork. If you're lucky, as I was, you can tour the museum practically by yourself too! (No lines here!) 

Initial work on the complex began in 1325, when this monastery was founded. Of course, as is typical here, work continued on during the following centuries! Monks inhabited this intricately decorated space almost constantly up until 1866. Shortly after their departure, the complex was turned into a museum by the archaeologist Giuseppe Fiorelli. This museum was, and still is, the best testament to the history and society of Naples. 

As I entered into the museum, the first building I encountered was the church. I stepped into the structure and I was completely alone. While the church isn't large by any standards, the artwork found inside is absolutely stunning. This church was consecrated in 1368, yet decoration of the inside continued on until the 18th century. The work of artists like Cosimo Fanzago, Jusepe de Ribera and others adorn the inside of the church. 

However, the museum also allows visitors to visit the sacresty, the small chapels and the other areas behind the church. The frescos there are just as marvelous as the ones in the church! And once again, it was just me and the art. 

The actual holdings of the museum, regarding various aspects of Neapolitan life through the years, are quite interesting. There are carriages and boats that belonged to the kings, intricately carved and painted. There are paintings and sculptures, mostly of a religious nature, that show off the ability of some of Napoli's most famous artists. One of the most eye-catching aspects of the collection is a huge Nativity scene. Naples is well-known for the hand-crafted presepe, and the museum houses the largest Nativity scene I've ever seen. 

My favorite part of the museum is called the Chiostro Grande, basically a large courtyard in the middle of the museum. In the very center, there is a well designed by Giovanni Antonio Dosio. Surrounded by beautiful, colorful, flowering trees, this courtyard is heavenly. Nevertheless, there is a darker side to the chiostro. Skulls. Yes, there is a tiny cemetery there and the fence surrounding it is topped with (fake) skulls. 

The museum is open every day from 8.30 until 7.30 p.m., except for Wednesdays. Tickets cost around 7 euro, although there are certain times when entrance is free. (I believe from 8.30 until 10.30 and from 5.30 p.m until closing, but I am not 100% about the times.) 

Omelette with Zucchini Flowers and Pancetta

Zucchini flowers are such a versatile ingredient, yet they are so frequently served battered and fried. No, these blossoms have much more to offer than that.

The other day I decided to make an omelette with zucchini flowers. Really simple, and it came out beautifully. I browned some pancetta cubes and a little onion with a tiny bit of olive oil. Once those were almost done cooking, I tossed in some chopped zucchini flowers and let them cook for a minute or two before adding the beaten eggs to the pan. Once the eggs finished cooking, I filled the inside of the omelette with ricotta and chopped mint.

I hope to be finding a lot more recipes featuring zucchini flowers this spring! If anyone out there knows of a good recipe, don't hesitate to leave a comment!

Chocolate Giveaway!!!

So, after my post the other day, I want to know about YOUR most memorable meal while traveling! (Italian or otherwise!) It could be about anything, from an elegant 5-star meal to a cheap lunch on-the-go to the worst meal ever! We need details, humor, and of course great description of the food! I know I have readers from ALL over the globe, so I hope there will be lots of diverse memories!

The winner will receive a taste of Naples in the form of the city's most famous chocolate: Gay-Odin. Trust me, their chocolate is SO amazing!! If you've never tried, you're missing out on something very delicious!

Please submit all entries to

live.italiano@gmail.com

before the 15th of March. The winner will then have their story published on Live.Italiano and of course get their chocolate fix! I want to have lots of entries, so tell your friends and family, too! Get writing!!