Underground Naples

Naples is a fantastic city to see, but like many Italian cities, a lot of the history is underground. (Basically cities were built vertically, new buildings on top of the old ones.) Here, there are three different choices to see the subterranean city. I'll eventually visit all of them, but a few days ago I visited the most popular. Right in the historical center of the city, the tour is an interesting way to see a part of Naples that lots of Neapolitans haven't even seen.

The tour begins in a very typical apartment called a "basso." (The name refers to the fact that the apartment is "low," or on the street level.) From this unassuming abode, my group simply walked down a few stairs to the family's cantina. Not just a place to keep wine and food, this basement area was actually the backstage of an ancient Roman theater!

From there, we went to an ex-woodworking shop. This area, back in the 1st century, was part of the seating area of the amphitheater. Now, it's a quick stop on the tour and filled with nativity scenes. (Naples is famous for this and vendors sell nativities and figurines nearby year round.)

The bulk of the tour, though, takes place in a much more ample underground space. Here, you go underground and back about 5,ooo years. The tour visits both the Greek and Roman cisterns. (The private Greek cisterns were much smaller in comparison to the public Roman aqueducts.) For World War II buffs, this is also where 3,ooo or so Neapolitans lived during the war. Naples was heavily bombarded during the war, so many took refuge underground during that period. Unfortunately, claustrophobia may set in here, since many of the passageways are (incredibly) narrow.

The underground is so interesting, however, I must say a great tour guide can make all the difference in the world. My tour was led by Alex, a super-personable, knowledgeable, and fun guide, who spoke perfect English. (And Spanish! He even translated so a Spanish couple could understand everything he had to share!)

Napoli Sotterranea is a must-see, even if you only have a day here. It is open every day and tours leave roughly every two hours. The entrance is located in Piazza San Gaetano, off of Via Tribunali. Tours cost 9.30 euro, a deal for such an interesting experience!!!