San Martino

If you're looking for only one museum to visit while in Naples, the Certosa of San Martino just may be it. Situated in the Vomero, the museum offers breathtaking views and an amazing, varied collection of artwork. If you're lucky, as I was, you can tour the museum practically by yourself too! (No lines here!) 

Initial work on the complex began in 1325, when this monastery was founded. Of course, as is typical here, work continued on during the following centuries! Monks inhabited this intricately decorated space almost constantly up until 1866. Shortly after their departure, the complex was turned into a museum by the archaeologist Giuseppe Fiorelli. This museum was, and still is, the best testament to the history and society of Naples. 

As I entered into the museum, the first building I encountered was the church. I stepped into the structure and I was completely alone. While the church isn't large by any standards, the artwork found inside is absolutely stunning. This church was consecrated in 1368, yet decoration of the inside continued on until the 18th century. The work of artists like Cosimo Fanzago, Jusepe de Ribera and others adorn the inside of the church. 

However, the museum also allows visitors to visit the sacresty, the small chapels and the other areas behind the church. The frescos there are just as marvelous as the ones in the church! And once again, it was just me and the art. 

The actual holdings of the museum, regarding various aspects of Neapolitan life through the years, are quite interesting. There are carriages and boats that belonged to the kings, intricately carved and painted. There are paintings and sculptures, mostly of a religious nature, that show off the ability of some of Napoli's most famous artists. One of the most eye-catching aspects of the collection is a huge Nativity scene. Naples is well-known for the hand-crafted presepe, and the museum houses the largest Nativity scene I've ever seen. 

My favorite part of the museum is called the Chiostro Grande, basically a large courtyard in the middle of the museum. In the very center, there is a well designed by Giovanni Antonio Dosio. Surrounded by beautiful, colorful, flowering trees, this courtyard is heavenly. Nevertheless, there is a darker side to the chiostro. Skulls. Yes, there is a tiny cemetery there and the fence surrounding it is topped with (fake) skulls. 

The museum is open every day from 8.30 until 7.30 p.m., except for Wednesdays. Tickets cost around 7 euro, although there are certain times when entrance is free. (I believe from 8.30 until 10.30 and from 5.30 p.m until closing, but I am not 100% about the times.)